Chocolates & Dreams

 We were recently guests in God’s Own Country – Kerala. After spending a few amazing days surrounded by the beautiful Tea Gardens of Munnar (read about that experience in this post) we headed towards Thekkadi. The distance between these two places around a 100 kms but because of winding roads it takes almost 3 hrs to reach. Once we reached Kumily we bought tickets for the Kathakali show that evening and proceeded to the Tusker Trails, Club Mahindra.  
The Periyar Tiger Reserve has a total of 62 tigers, 80 leopards, about 1000 elephants, nilgiri langurs and many other reptile species. There is a special trip that one has to take to go inside the tiger reserve. We opted for the Gavi Eco Tourism trip. It starts very early in the morning, around 5:30 a.m. Eraly mornings are the best times to spot animals. Once we started from our hotel we travelled almost 20 – 25 kms to get to the entrance of the forest reserve. After a cup of hot tea we proceeded into the forest.

Elephant & Baby

Within 5 minutes of entering we found a cluster of jeeps parked on the roads. Hurra ! We had already spotted our first group of wild elephants. It was a small group of around 5-6 elephants and we also spotted a baby in there midst. The forest is dense and green and Thomas our jeep driver and guide told us that he had see all animals that one could possibly see in the forest. There are certain areas within the forest that are occupied by the local tribes; he belonged to one of those. Ever since a child he had been out in the forests playing and picking fruits. Only after marriage and for his children’s education did he move to the city.
A little ahead we suddenly heard movement on our left, he stopped the vehicle and just a few meters ahead we saw a Tusker cross the road. Our excitement knew no bound. Then, Thomas narrated his wild encounter.
 It was a usual day & he had been out with the tourists when a Tusker crossed the road right in front of them. Knowing the danger they were facing he asked everyone to sit quietly and switched of the jeep. The Tusker crossed the road and when in about 20 meters, then it suddenly turned around & charged at the jeep. Instinctively he started the vehicle & backed it up at full speed that is usually supposed to calm them. But, this Tusker was angry. He kept coming at them & ultimately they had to abandon the jeep & run into the forest. Fortunately the Tusker overturned the jeep & left. They were all unhurt but very shaken.
Wild Tuskers are considered the most dangerous animals. They are always alone and get angry very quickly. Animals also get agitated by the colour red. I was immediately asked to remove my red jacket & put it aside.
We saw many nilgiri langurs, sambar deer and wild gaurs on our way. We were lucky enough to see a wild gaur cross the road as well. Thomas was very happy as sighting so many animals was quite rare. At the end of the journey we reached the Gavi Eco Tourism Hotel inside the Periyar National Reserve. It is a beautiful hotel sponsored by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation Ltd. Overlooking it, is a beautiful artificial water reserve. Many animals can be spotted here in the early mornings. The lake also has a boating facility. Here we meet our next guide Viji. A young & enthusiastic man, it was a pleasure to meet him. After a sumptuous breakfast of idli’s, sambar, chutney, poached eggs, bread & butter, fruits and tea we headed out for a trek into the forest. A powerhouse of energy he had a lot to say and ask. Almost immediately after climbing a small hill we spotted a group of 16 wild gaurs deep down in the valleys. After trekking for some time and a lot of information about the fauna, flora & animals, we got back to the hotel to relax.

Elephant Footprints

Footprints Of A Tiger or Leopard

It was a nice & sunny winter day. A good rest on the soft grass, beside the lake had us ready for boating. Viji at the oars was again telling us about his life, a girl-friend in the close by city, his work as a guide at the hotel, there life in this beautiful forest. We were amazed to know that a few years back when he had just started working as a guide he knew only 2 words in English, ‘yes’ & ‘no’. His interaction with foreigners over the years had helped him learn to speak English and a few words in French and Spanish as well. A keen observer & learner he would ask us the meaning of every sentence we spoken in Bengali & had us teach him a few words and sentences. All this while he ensured that we saw the paw prints of tigers & elephants on the lake’s banks, spotted a kingfisher for us & ensured that we did not have a single dull moment.

The Lake

Fig Tree

Elephant Skull

Once back from the boating we relaxed near a huge fig tree. I was the first time that I had seen a fig tree. Once Viji realised my awe & excitement he pluck a few almost rip fruits & had us taste them. Then we headed off to see a collection of skeletons of elephants & wild gaurs that they had recovered from the forest. The elephant skull had chills running down my spine. The wonders of nature !
After a quick visit to a cardamom factory & a delicious lunch we headed back to our hotel in Thekkadi to unwind & relax.
The next day we spend lazing around the hotel & in the evening went for a show of Kalari. An ancient form of Martial art, it is beautiful to watch. The kind of control, dedication & devotion it requires is enormous & all the young men who demonstrated its different styles and forms had been initiated into its practice since childhood.
Thekkadi is famous for spices, especially cardamoms. A visit to this place is incomplete with the purchase of cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon, dry fruits, kerala halwa & banana chips. The prices are almost 50% less than the market price in metros and the quality is far more superior. Another must buy is a kathakali mask, male and female face made of paper mash and wood are both available. Armed with spices and pleasant memories of our trip be headed back to the Kochi airport for your flight to Delhi.
My must do & to remember list & a few things I didn’t discuss above :
•Make friends with the locals. They are very pleasant & helpful.
•Never take anything RED to a wildlife centaury. My backpack & jacket were both red.
•Other than the trip to the Periyar National Reserve, there are many other interesting trips like the Night Watchman. 6 individuals along with a guide & an armed guard are taken into the forest at night. My hubby when for this, I am too much a coward to try such adventures. He had a very good experience.
•Visit the forest department office and find out about the many other interesting trips on offer.
•Carry some kind of wind cheater. The early morning was very clod & we froze to our bones.
•Don’t miss the Kathakali & Kalari shows.
•Eat the local food. The kerala fish fry, kerala partha, meen moili are a must. More about those soon.

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